If you’re faint-hearted, this journey may not be for you.
The best rides are the ones where you bite off more than you can chew and live through it — D. Bradburry
Spiti Valley in Himachal Pradesh/India, is a secluded, challenging, yet extraordinary destination to experience on a motorbike. If you love adventure riding, the thrill of gliding along the edge, and a quench of dusty solitude, Spiti would be the perfect spot for you.
You’ll experience an exhilarating journey from the verdant landscape of Himachal Pradesh to the stunning beauty of Spiti, which opens the door to an entirely different world.
Spiti is a rider’s Shangri-la
It’s a rugged, untamed, cold desert area surrounded by a timeless windswept landscape with bizarre rock formations. Dotted with little settlements where people have lived for centuries, enduring the valley’s harsh environment.
It is a maze of narrow, vertical gorges and broad valleys where one’s mind can easily wander astray. A barren spaciousness that will tickle every rider’s soul.
Where the sound of grunting yaks and gushing rivers makes for a beautiful, most natural melody. Where villages and monasteries nestle against the mighty mountain world that keeps its people protected.
The sky above stretches to its limits but never shatters. And riding beneath it is a blessing. Where existence is defined by the pure pleasure of being out here, with the engine's gentle hum and the joy of being on the road.
Spiti is not for the faint at heart
Crossing through the valley requires courage. It is a ride of many extremes:
scorching heat
dazzling single-laned roads
high-altitude passes
ice and snow
intimidating water crossings
rugged terrain
hazardous declines
The highway curls along the edge of rugged cliffs and vertical walls, which Mother Nature has modeled over millions of years.
It is a masterpiece of human engineering that literally teeters on the brink of the abyss. Maneuvering past cars, buses, and trucks up here can be a nerve-wracking experience while being dangerously close to the edge of this single-track road.
It is a little less scary on a motorbike, but you can’t ignore the proximity to the deadly drop. It is omnipresent.
Spiti shows the world what it is about to lose
As you journey through this desolate terrain, you discover something huge. This windswept expanse serves as a reminder of what we are about to lose — the serene simplicity of life.
Here, time still seems to rest as people continue their everyday routines in sync with the seasons. Monks still dedicate themselves to prayer, and villagers gather in front of their homes, basking in the mild summer sun, chatting away.
And when you park your bike and take your helmet off at a remote monastery perched on a cliff, you can perceive it with all your senses. The serene sound of silence echoes throughout the vast surroundings.
A sound we no longer hear in our noisy world.
Spiti has many unsung heroes
The road through Spiti is lined with road workers, mainly from Nepal or Bihar Province. A challenging attempt that secures their seasonal jobs and income. But working in the blazing sun, dizzying heights, and constant dust is cruel. The risk of falling rocks and slips further adds to the problem.
But no matter how dangerous and exhausting the work may be, there is always time for a happy Julee — the local greeting — as you ride by.
When these brave roadside heroes allow me to pass, I am aware of their tireless work to maintain the road. Because without their efforts to chisel, sweep, and upkeep, I wouldn't be able to ride up here.
Spiti, in a nutshell
Spiti may not be ideal if you are uneasy with heights as you keep riding along the edge. Even if you’re not, some places will surely push you out of your comfort zone, where a tiny mistake could be fatal.
But, when you lean into faith and take on the challenges, the region offers an incredible adventure on wheels. It teaches you new skills, confidence, and valuable insights. You may sweat and swear, but when you look back, it was easier than it initially appeared.
Spiti makes you want to stay. But if you can’t, you will return. With or without a bike.
Thank you for taking the time to read a Roadside Story from India. I have just returned from Spiti Valley and am still basking in memories that feel like a ride to heaven.
Happy riding
— Kerstin
If you want to learn more about women-only adventure riding, this could be your place.